If it wasn’t for the docking of the first cruise ship in Mossel Bay for the upcoming summer season, I might never have really explored the area — but thanks to Mossel Bay Tourism I had a whirlwind tour of the greater area.
Mossel Bay sits on the south-coast of the Western Cape, right on the famous Garden Route framed by the Outeniqua mountains.
It occupies the Cape St Blaize peninsula, has five Blue Flag beaches (De Bakke, Hartenbos, Klein Brak River Beach, Santos Beach and Glentana Beach) and there’s everything to love about it (besides the roadworks at the moment).
Its name is derived from the Dutch word for mussels, a nod to the shellfish that early seafarers found here.
It’s important from a historical point of view as archaeological work has found places like Pinnacle Point where human activity goes back more than 100,000 years.
Portuguese navigator Bartolomeu Dias landed here on February 3 1488.
In the 1500s, letters for passing ships were left in a shoe under what is now known as the Post Office Tree.
Historically, there is tons to do here. Wander the old town, visit the lighthouse, explore the excellent museum at the Dias complex.
I’ve always found the lay of the land in Mossel Bay to be rather confusing, with the Klein and Groot Braks, Glentana and Hartenbos among other areas, but they are surprisingly close to one another — and it would seem that every area has its very own treats.
Mossel Bay Tourism offers a Route 12 experience which is all about visiting these outlying areas.
My first visit to the greater Mossel Bay is Salty River Beerhouse in Klein Brak — and the impression I get here is one of friendliness, a sentiment that seems to run deep in this town.
It’s authentic here, with only pizza and nachos on the menu, and everything, even the chicken that goes on as a topping, is cooked in the pizza oven.
The Don Juan pizza, with smoked chicken, mushrooms, feta, peppadew and caramelised onion, and Lady of the Farm, which marries bacon and a green fig preserve, are their signature pizzas.
What made my heart sing was the side helping of homemade chilli, pesto and garlic served with each pizza, as generous as the toppings.
Sample some unusual craft beers or how about a Turkish delight flavoured gin made in Sedgefield on the Garden Route. From 10am until 8pm, this local haunt pumps.
We were based at Seebederfie Guesthouse at Groot Brak, which is true to its Afrikaans name — it is a treat to stay here.
At the end of a busy day, we arrived to the most comfortable room with the breeze bringing that salty smell right off the sea.
The view from any of the four rooms here is over a manicured lawn onto the beach and ocean as far as the eye can see. It’s no mean feat growing perfect grass at the coast, so it gets lots of TLC.
Seebederfie belongs to Johnny Peens, who left his mechanical engineering business in Newcastle, KwaZulu-Natal, behind him and embarked on this project four years ago.
He used to come to Mossel Bay on holidays and then he bought this amazing piece of land parked on the dunes in 2017. A friend suggested he turn the property into accommodation.
“I took a chance and have never looked back,” Peens says.
His guests are mostly South African, and a lot of them repeat visitors, although he does get overseas clients.
He genuinely likes people so you are almost sure to meet him when you check in here at Seebederfie. He’s warm and welcoming — five-star hosting is his passion.
I wondered why there wasn’t a wooden pathway all the way down the dunes to the beach and Peens explains just how strict the rules are when it comes to preserving nature as it is.
Not any indigenous plant can be tampered with, so it’s wild and rugged, the way it should be, around his place.
That’s why you will see the francolin digging and rolling in the grass, why there are mongeese and even little buck.
Peens says he travelled a lot, so when it came to designing his own guest bedrooms, he had an idea of what he wanted to offer and that’s luxury presented in a minimalist way.
The building in facebrick respects the natural setting of this place.
Recliners and outdoor chairs are put outside each room so that guests can lounge and absorb the view.
The bed and pillows here are really as comfy as they get.
Hot water in the generous shower heats immediately owing to a titanium element in the geyser.
Every cushion and detail here, from the fabric to the fitting, is luxurious.
I was positively puzzled about what looked like a fake plant because it was so perfect and it turns out it is a rubber plant — chosen for that one green decor touch.
Seebederfie is totally off the grid.
I can now recommend a busy and very popular seaside dining place in Glentana, only minutes away from Seebederfie called Meet@Sea.
Here you will you enjoy views of the beach and it’s perfect for long lunches or dinners that roll from sunset into the evening.
The restaurant opens at 11am and pumps until 9.30pm. In season, bookings are essential. It can seat about 200 people, yet it still fills to capacity.
The Leach family is the backbone of the restaurant and there is almost always a Leach around, with mom Liza and dad Adrian chatting to guests, or you will meet Richard, one of their sons.
Before becoming a restaurateur, Adrian farmed pigs and had specialist butcher shops in Harrismith, with franchises in Mthatha and Bloemfontein.
They took over the Glentana premises in November 2023 and opened on December 1.
It was, as Richard admits, a baptism of fire, with teething problems, like hunting for the right chef. But by 2025 business was up by 60% and flourishing, even in the winter season.
Mossel Bay locals are regulars, but plenty of diners drive from George, Wilderness and even Knysna for a meal here. In summer, overseas visitors add to the mix.
What really sets this kitchen apart is the commitment to fresh, local produce.
Only fresh hake is used, never frozen, and in December they go through about two tons of it.
Their bread comes from a local bakery and the menu offers something for everyone, from seafood to authentic pizzas, to steak and meat offerings.
A dish that has earned its own loyal following is the paella, so delectable that a Spanish guest raved about it and asked for the recipe, Richard tells us.
Then there are the oysters, which are something of a house celebration and the selection occupies its very own little menu.
Sourced from Groot Brak, they arrive on your plate wild and ocean-born, served raw with a kick of tabasco, sea salt, cracked black pepper and lemon or in various ways, including cloaked in panko crumbs and gently fried.
I had sushi and Richard is quite right — they go the extra mile to make sushi pop. I get a little dragon on my plate and the selection is as good as it gets.
As a farewell, what better place to visit than Daily Bread in Groot Brak where faith gets renewed. Izak and Lorraine Sadler from Tshwane have owned this bakery since 2023.
They did not come from hospitality or catering backgrounds and what they have done here is nothing short of miraculous.
All sorts of people, from cyclists to joggers, line up outside from 6.30am and there is a flow of traffic all day, long queues in season.
This couple are not pastry chefs — they have learnt along the way. They were not bakers of bread, including ciabatta and sourdough, until Lorraine learnt how and she says simply “the dough chose me”.
Wonderful eats flow from this bakery all day long, from cheesecakes to carrot cake, pies and the cinnabun, which is a firm favourite.
The philosophy here is simple — see it and choose it, pay for it and then collect it to eat at simple wooden tables or takeaway.
I had a chicken mayo on home-baked rye bread and though it’s simple, it’s packed with filling and flavour.
Mark has a quiche and says it’s one of the best he’s tasted.
Their chocolate croissants come from Belgium. We leave with pies for later to eat at home and they are also scrumptious.
Izak is a coffee nut and so he has created a special blend here.
The couple believe God gave them a ministry in the form of filling tummies and hearts with love. I can feel it.
Goodbye Mossel Bay, for this time anyway. I can’t wait to visit more often.
The Herald
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