There’s plenty of change afoot at Landskroon in Paarl, in the hands of five generations of De Villiers family winemakers for more than 150 years and recently moved into the hands of another winemaking clan, the Retiefs of Van Loveren.
Along with Landskroon, the Retiefs also acquired Worcester-based Overhex Wines and their premium Survivor wines brand — and these two brands, one reflecting history and family legacy, the other fresh and contemporary, now share a cellar and upgraded winemaking facilities at Landskroon.
While winemaker Fanie Geyser continues to source his grapes from the Landskroon vineyards, cellar master Pierre Wahl’s focus with Survivor is on sourcing the best grapes from terroir that suits each varietal best — across the Swartland, maritime-influenced Darling on the west coast, and Tradouw in the Little Karoo.
With Van Loveren also having acquired interests in other premium brands, including Neil Ellis and Zandvliet, managing director Phillip Retief has said the intention is to retain the distinct identity of each brand, grown and made from its own vineyards by a dedicated winemaking team in its own cellar, each “standing for something specific, each having its own appeal in different markets”.
So while Landskroon and Survivor share a cellar and a renovated tasting room on the farm that reopened late last year — the interior designed to complement both brands — the move has resulted in more than business efficiency and improved logistics, say the winemakers.
“I started my winemaking journey in Paarl more than three decades ago,” Wahl said.
“To be back here now, crafting Survivor wines at Landskroon, feels incredibly special. Landskroon has deep family heritage, and there’s something so grounding about working in a cellar with history. There’s a real energy in this space. We’re sharing ideas, experience and infrastructure, but also enthusiasm.
“It’s efficient, yes. But it’s also inspiring. We push each other in the best possible way.”
Geyser adds: “There’s real mutual respect, and great synergy created by pooling resources and expertise.
“We challenge each other, we taste constantly, and we debate, always in a good spirit. That’s how you grow.
“It may look seamless from the outside, but behind it all is a lot of teamwork.”
Landskroon, as sadly often happens with legacy brands, has played rather under-the-radar in marketing visibility in recent years, but hopefully the weight of the Van Loveren marketing and distribution machine behind it will bring the brand back onto consumers’ radar. Because it is a bit of a hidden gem, punching above its affordable pricing in terms of the quality it offers.
Perhaps an initial result of the fresh energy and investment is Landskroon’s recent launch of their first Cap Classique — a pinot noir brut that is as stylish in the glass as its elegant pink-and-white striped label (R215 from the cellar).
Fine bubbles, soft and rounded mouthfeel, dry but the acidity very gentle, it’s a really enjoyable glass on a sunny afternoon, with aromas and flavours of strawberry and cranberry, lifted with a little lemon tang and a tasty lingering finish.
Tasting this sample was a good reason to re-visit some other Landskroon wines.
It may look seamless from the outside, but behind it all is a lot of teamwork.
— Fanie Geyser
The winery prides itself on its Pinotage Blanc de Noir (a shade under R100).
Similar to the bubbly, it’s light, fresh, easy drinking for a picnic or braai, with tangy red fruit, a light touch of Pinotage savouriness and spice, and slightly off-dry for those who like a touch of sweetness.
Landskroon Paul Hugo Red (R85-R100) is a great go-to red blend of shiraz and pinotage for everyday enjoyment, or a classy wine-by-the-glass for restaurants.
Loads of fruity, berry, plummy flavour and touches of warm spice and cedar, great with a braai and refreshing in summer if served lightly chilled.
However, the undoubted star is the Bordeaux-style blend, Paul de Villiers Reserve 2022, with a Platter’s 4.5* rating and accessibly priced at about R180 to R220.
Full-bodied, plush and smooth, aromatic with dark berries and spice that carry through onto the palate, this is bold, elegant, cellar-worthy and can easily stand its own in the company of pricier, premium Bordeaux-style blends.
Amid change, Landskroon’s offering of quality for value remains.
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