Betty’s Boutique Hotel on the Garden Route, a genuine English oasis, is such an exciting find because it’s so different, a proper little gem, that teleports you to another place, another moment in time.
It’s located conveniently right in the heart of Mossel Bay, with all the town’s attractions easily accessible.
Marcia Wulana has been here for 10 years and she greets us warmly, gives us a welcome drink, and then she proudly shows us around the property.
Because it’s quiet and not full the night we are there, we get a tour of the different rooms, each one with its own delightful theme.
The generous terrace with comfy sitting places that beckon, takes my fancy because from here you can see the sea and the mountains in the distance.
It’s the perfect place for tea and scones, for breakfast, or just for sinking into one of the couches with a glass of wine.
The theme here is unmistakably English; there are roses on the tablecloths, silverware, crystal decanters and glassware, old clocks, porcelain figurines, Toby and character jugs in display cabinets, paintings that all depict a bygone time in England.
If you are a Royalist, the place will delight you because of its royal memorabilia from a painting of Queen Victoria to coronations, jubilees and royal weddings captured in paintings and artefacts, books even.
Antique furniture such as mahogany, oak and walnut imbue that unmistakable feeling of old while floral fabrics and other treasured pieces gathered over a lifetime create comfort and old-world charm.
The dead giveaway that it’s all English here, are the decorative plates displayed on the walls featuring English scenes like floral designs, especially roses, country cottages, hunting and equestrian scenes, birds and wildlife, historic landmarks.
What makes this place special is that it’s a family affair here and so the hotel is furnished with antiques and treasures that have really have come all the way from England.
The Clayphan family moved lock, stock and barrel to SA from Yorkshire in 2003.
Wendy and Dave Clayphan very quickly fell in love with the country and originally built a holiday home in Mossel Bay in 2005.
Their daughter, Daisy, grew up in South Africa from the age of six and went to school in Mossel Bay before finishing her education in Dubai, where the family moved for five years.
Daisy started baking heavenly cupcakes from the tender age of four with her grandmother, Marjorie, in England.
While in Dubai, Daisy developed even more of a passion for food and set her sights on becoming a chef.
She studied culinary arts at Buxton in Derbyshire and dreamt of a place where she could fulfil her dream.
In July 2017, the Clayphan family bought the beautiful old heritage building in Mossel Bay central, for the purposes of a boutique hotel.
It was named after Betty, Dave’s mother, who loved fine China teacups and baking cakes.
The Clayphans soon discovered though that running a hotel was more than a retirement project, so they asked Daisy and her husband, Lewis, to come to SA and take over.
Lewis was in the hospitality trade so it was an obvious and easy shift for him and Daisy being a chef had always dreamt of serving proper English high teas in the right setting, so for her this opportunity was a fantasy come true.
Betty’s Boutique Hotel was built from limestone in 1903 and it reminds me of the feather palaces in Oudtshoorn.
One of the defining features of the famous ostrich “feather palaces” built during the feather boom in and around Oudtshoorn in the late 19th and early 20th centuries was their large wraparound verandahs.
They are cool in summer, sunny in winter and a place where socialising and life happens. We get to chat to other guests here.
Breakfast, meals and high tea are served right here on this stoep.
It’s a peculiar thing this, that at Betty’s Boutique Hotel which is so cosy, you will never feel cramped by other guests, there is always a perfect place to occupy.
The bar lounge has comfortable armchairs, is softly lit, and in winter there’s a roaring fireplace.
There are books and games, an honesty bar and it feels welcoming and warm.
There’s also a pool table all the way from England.
A highlight of Betty’s, something guests really enjoy, is the speakeasy pub under the floor of the stoep.
A speakeasy is a style of bar inspired by the secret drinking establishments that flourished in the US during prohibition in the 1920s and early 1930s, when alcohol was illegal.
Often hidden behind unmarked doors or tucked away in unexpected places, speakeasies were known for their intimate atmosphere, low lighting and sense of exclusivity.
It was during Covid that Lewis and Daisy built this speakeasy with a wooden staircase leading under the terrace.
It’s the perfect place for a drink or to meet friends as it sets the mood perfectly with a touch of theatre and nostalgia.
You won’t see Daisy much because she says she calls herself the back-of-the-house person and is to be found in her kitchen cooking or baking.
She comes out briefly to meet me in her apron and is dusted with flour and smells like fresh scones.
Resident guests can pre-order Daisy’s set evening meal and the next morning enjoy a heavenly breakfast served on the verandah.
As well as other options from the menu after enjoying fresh fruit, muesli and yoghurts, a full English breakfast is served.
Here at Betty’s, they uphold one of Britain’s most enduring culinary traditions, a generous plate of bacon, eggs, sausages, mushrooms, tomatoes, baked beans and fried bread.
A speciality and highlight are Daisy’s high teas, normally available on Saturdays.
The quintessential scones with jam and cream are served, there are savoury cheese and chive scones, a feast of three types of cakes and a selection of delicate finger sandwiches.
Needless to say, the treats are served on a tiered vintage cake stand.
And somehow, tea just tastes the way it should when it is poured out of a pot into a fine China tea cup.
Garden Route residents have cottoned on that a high tea here is the perfect way to celebrate special occasions like kitchen teas, birthdays, baby showers, even small weddings. Just talk to Daisy.
There are six rooms and a self-catering apartment. Guests comprise a mix of 60% international guests and 40% South African visitors.
Much love and many treasures have gone into the decor of the whole hotel and the rooms.
Choose from the Royal Suite, Rose Suite, Spa bedroom, Off The Wall room, Secret Garden Room and the Quirky Room.
Every room is decked out in luxury and redolent of romance and a bygone era, but very different, so I recommend looking online before choosing.
Our stay in the Royal Suite, done out in red and gold with a four-poster bed, period features and antiques, creates a royal and extravagant mood.
There’s even a vintage washstand in the bathroom. I read two little books about the royal family which were on the coffee table, one on Princess Diana.
And the bed has an electric blanket!
For a family, the Bettys Bijou Apartment offers two bedrooms, a small kitchenette with full cooking facilities and a generous bathroom.
There’s also an outdoor braai area and a thatched lapa and access to the main hotel’s swimming pool and kids play area.
In summer, there’s a heated swimming pool to enjoy.
There’s also a South African braai area where guests are invited to braai for themselves.
If Lewis isn’t around, then Marcia or one of their dedicated people who have all worked here for years, welcome guests and give them a tour of the hotel.
This friendly team is intimately acquainted with the town of Mossel Bay and enjoys sharing its knowledge with guests.
They will talk to you about local attractions, places to eat and are happy to make bookings for you.
On the terrace, you will see a blackboard with a long list of things to do in Mossel Bay and there’s something for everybody.
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