Swellendam’s location at the start of the Garden Route from the Western Cape side and close to the Tradouw Pass, which leads to the famous R62 road and the Little Karoo, makes the dorpie an ideal springboard for tourists wishing to explore this part of the country, but it’s a real winner for a staycation as well.
If you live on the Garden Route, you will most certainly pass Swellendam on travels in and around the area. And it’s half way between Cape Town and George, making a stop here the perfect place to stretch your legs.
But the million dollar question is, have you actually spent time here?
Over the years, we have religiously stopped at the Oude Post BP Buffeljagsrivier Filling Station & Bistro for a roosterkoek. They make literally thousands of these a day during holiday seasons and you will see the ladies baking them on the outside fire.
The fillings are obscenely huge and there is a huge choice of what to pack into one.
This time round though we decided not to just smash a roosterkoek while passing through, but to instead actually visit the town of Swellendam, to smell the roses for two whole days.
Swellendam is named after Hendrik Swellengrebel and his wife, Helena ten Damme, and was declared a magisterial district in 1745, making it the third oldest district in SA.
In June 1795, locals unhappy with the Dutch rule called themselves “national burghers” and elected Hermanus Steyn as their president, but this was short-lived as British forces seized the Cape towards the end of this year.
British settlers discovered Swellendam in the early 19th Century and the area attracted artisans and inhabitants as the gateway to the interior. Nowadays property prices here have soared as Swellendam has become sought after as a laid-back and picturesque place to live, very much part of the semigration phenomenon.
Marjolein van Mourik Borrias, our gracious host for the weekend and owner of De Kloof Heritage Estate, where we were most fortunate to stay, gave me clues about what to do in Swellendam, planting the seed that there are loads of things to do here.
First thing she recommended was the Saturday market. Under the Oaks is a small country craft and food market, where all products are locally made or grown. Local food and craft produce, fresh breads, pastries, cakes, artisanal goods, plants, herbs, flowers and local craft beer are sold literally under the oak trees.
There is live music and children are playing in the river bed, the vibe is happy and chilled as locals meet up and visitors enjoy it. Surrounding the market are some bespoke gift shops such as Grace + Merci Perfumery and an art gallery, among others, all worth a browse.
My other half has a passion for getting cement feet in museums, so I was a little concerned that he would drag me around for hours at the museum here, but it turns out the Drostdy Museum is really so interesting and well appointed that it’s easy to spend time here.
That their brochures are in French, German, Afrikaans and English speaks to the volume of guests who visit.
The original Drostdy was built by the Dutch East India Company in 1747 as the residence and offices of the Landdrost of Swellendam. Under British governorship, the Drostdy was inhabited by the resident magistrate and then sold in 1846.
After nearly a century, the building was bought by the Union Government in 1939 to serve as a museum and it was officially opened in 1943, housing a fine collection of late 18th Century furniture and household things including tools and equipment used by artisans and craftsmen.
Mayville, a 19th Century historic house, is part of this complex and well worth lingering in. There is a cell in the old jail where they used to put women and when you close the door it is pitch black in here. The staff at the museum are really helpful and enthusiastic.
Staying at De Kloof Heritage Estate nestled near at the top of the kloof with its very own mountain view is a treat. The estate and some of the buildings here are 200 years old.
Marjolein’s family bought a generous tract of land here about 20 years ago and have since developed this into five-star accommodation.
First established in 1801, the property consists of the Manor House which serves as a reception area and dining room, while there are several private cottages elegantly restored and transformed into what is now a sophisticated and bespoke boutique hotel and spa. Rooms and suites are situated in a lush garden setting, all with their own private terraces.
We were treated to a stay in the Retreat Villa, a romantic cottage for two. It’s pure luxury, solar-powered, with a fireplace inside and a braai area on an enclosed patio, then there’s the private garden with loungers on the lawn and a wood-fired hot tub with views of the Langeberg Mountain. It has its own secure parking place.
As you enter there’s is a bird cage for cellphones to be parked while visiting, setting the mood here. The kitchen has any and every creature comfort you might need. There is a generous bedroom with an en suite bathroom, tub and shower. It’s home from home, but actually maybe better.
Breakfast is included in a stay at De Kloof Heritage Estate and it’s not just a mundane meal; it’s a feast of everything from fruit, yoghurt and cereals to cold meats and cheeses, pastries and a specially cooked feast of your choice.
The setting is in a dining room — elegant, chic, contemporary, but also charmingly historic with the old Cape Dutch shutters on the windows.
If you had a thought that Swellendam was in the back waters, think again when it comes to restaurants. We had dinner at Republic of Swellendam, so named after Swellendam’s rebellion in 1795. We sat in the outside garden area and there was a real buzz, not to mention a memorable pizza.
Tredici offers genuine Italian fare, then there’s fine dining at La Sosta or Christelle’s Bistro, Field & Fork among other eateries. Locals all know the best pizzas are to be found at Woodpecker.
Swellendam offers a host of things to do, like walk to the waterfall at Duiwelsbos in Marloth Nature Reserve, visit the Wildebraam Berry Farm or head for a wine tasting at Olivedale Private Vineyards.
We did one of the hikes in Bontebok National Park and lost the path. It was hot, I was cranky, but it was most enjoyable, especially seeing the cows on the banks of the Breede River. They have neat picnic sites here.
A highlight of our De Kloof stay was the private Kundalini yoga class hosted by Susan Rossetto in the studio of the Manor House. In typical man-fashion my partner thought of ducking this one, but it turned out to be the best start to a holiday for both of us.
Susan has dedicated her life to yoga and her gentle spirit and encouragement make this hour-and-a-half session so special. It’s rather like some of her good energy radiates from her into us.
No previous experience in this yoga is required, it’s spiritual and not religious, and she tailors the class to the fitness and suppleness of her students. There’s nothing intimidating about it at all.
Kundalini Yoga is known as the yoga of awareness and experience and it’s a personal experience. You are very much in control of how you practise during a class, listening to your own body while being guided by Susan.
She explains the importance of moving our bodies, especially as we get older, and says that yoga is healing, strengthens the immune system and is good for peace as well.
The yoga class ends with Sound Gong Therapy (GONG) therapy, the sound that comes as she uses what could be a magic wand around the rim of her three special bowls from India.
Apparently, these sounds produce a whole spectrum of harmonics that are based on pressure waves of sound which vibrate the energy meridians in the body and bring them into balance. It’s said to be excellent for stress, anxiety and loneliness.
De Kloof is all about good energy and health, so visit the Sans Souci Spa at the De Kloof Heritage Estate, which is exclusively available for in-house hotel guests and offers an impressive range of therapies and treatments.
Whether you lie by the beautiful pool, explore the area or just chill in your space, a visit to this gorgeous property is seeped in peace. I left feeling lighter and happier. Swellendam, I look forward to visiting you again.
For bookings:
* https://www.dekloof.co.za/pages/sound-gong-therapy-gong/
* www.dekloof.co.za
Weekender
Swellendam: so much more than just a roosterkoek stop!
Picturesque town offers excellent down-time options, including stately accommodation, mindful yoga and a quaint country market
Swellendam’s location at the start of the Garden Route from the Western Cape side and close to the Tradouw Pass, which leads to the famous R62 road and the Little Karoo, makes the dorpie an ideal springboard for tourists wishing to explore this part of the country, but it’s a real winner for a staycation as well.
If you live on the Garden Route, you will most certainly pass Swellendam on travels in and around the area. And it’s half way between Cape Town and George, making a stop here the perfect place to stretch your legs.
But the million dollar question is, have you actually spent time here?
Over the years, we have religiously stopped at the Oude Post BP Buffeljagsrivier Filling Station & Bistro for a roosterkoek. They make literally thousands of these a day during holiday seasons and you will see the ladies baking them on the outside fire.
The fillings are obscenely huge and there is a huge choice of what to pack into one.
This time round though we decided not to just smash a roosterkoek while passing through, but to instead actually visit the town of Swellendam, to smell the roses for two whole days.
Swellendam is named after Hendrik Swellengrebel and his wife, Helena ten Damme, and was declared a magisterial district in 1745, making it the third oldest district in SA.
In June 1795, locals unhappy with the Dutch rule called themselves “national burghers” and elected Hermanus Steyn as their president, but this was short-lived as British forces seized the Cape towards the end of this year.
British settlers discovered Swellendam in the early 19th Century and the area attracted artisans and inhabitants as the gateway to the interior. Nowadays property prices here have soared as Swellendam has become sought after as a laid-back and picturesque place to live, very much part of the semigration phenomenon.
Marjolein van Mourik Borrias, our gracious host for the weekend and owner of De Kloof Heritage Estate, where we were most fortunate to stay, gave me clues about what to do in Swellendam, planting the seed that there are loads of things to do here.
First thing she recommended was the Saturday market. Under the Oaks is a small country craft and food market, where all products are locally made or grown. Local food and craft produce, fresh breads, pastries, cakes, artisanal goods, plants, herbs, flowers and local craft beer are sold literally under the oak trees.
There is live music and children are playing in the river bed, the vibe is happy and chilled as locals meet up and visitors enjoy it. Surrounding the market are some bespoke gift shops such as Grace + Merci Perfumery and an art gallery, among others, all worth a browse.
My other half has a passion for getting cement feet in museums, so I was a little concerned that he would drag me around for hours at the museum here, but it turns out the Drostdy Museum is really so interesting and well appointed that it’s easy to spend time here.
That their brochures are in French, German, Afrikaans and English speaks to the volume of guests who visit.
The original Drostdy was built by the Dutch East India Company in 1747 as the residence and offices of the Landdrost of Swellendam. Under British governorship, the Drostdy was inhabited by the resident magistrate and then sold in 1846.
After nearly a century, the building was bought by the Union Government in 1939 to serve as a museum and it was officially opened in 1943, housing a fine collection of late 18th Century furniture and household things including tools and equipment used by artisans and craftsmen.
Mayville, a 19th Century historic house, is part of this complex and well worth lingering in. There is a cell in the old jail where they used to put women and when you close the door it is pitch black in here. The staff at the museum are really helpful and enthusiastic.
Staying at De Kloof Heritage Estate nestled near at the top of the kloof with its very own mountain view is a treat. The estate and some of the buildings here are 200 years old.
Marjolein’s family bought a generous tract of land here about 20 years ago and have since developed this into five-star accommodation.
First established in 1801, the property consists of the Manor House which serves as a reception area and dining room, while there are several private cottages elegantly restored and transformed into what is now a sophisticated and bespoke boutique hotel and spa. Rooms and suites are situated in a lush garden setting, all with their own private terraces.
We were treated to a stay in the Retreat Villa, a romantic cottage for two. It’s pure luxury, solar-powered, with a fireplace inside and a braai area on an enclosed patio, then there’s the private garden with loungers on the lawn and a wood-fired hot tub with views of the Langeberg Mountain. It has its own secure parking place.
As you enter there’s is a bird cage for cellphones to be parked while visiting, setting the mood here. The kitchen has any and every creature comfort you might need. There is a generous bedroom with an en suite bathroom, tub and shower. It’s home from home, but actually maybe better.
Breakfast is included in a stay at De Kloof Heritage Estate and it’s not just a mundane meal; it’s a feast of everything from fruit, yoghurt and cereals to cold meats and cheeses, pastries and a specially cooked feast of your choice.
The setting is in a dining room — elegant, chic, contemporary, but also charmingly historic with the old Cape Dutch shutters on the windows.
If you had a thought that Swellendam was in the back waters, think again when it comes to restaurants. We had dinner at Republic of Swellendam, so named after Swellendam’s rebellion in 1795. We sat in the outside garden area and there was a real buzz, not to mention a memorable pizza.
Tredici offers genuine Italian fare, then there’s fine dining at La Sosta or Christelle’s Bistro, Field & Fork among other eateries. Locals all know the best pizzas are to be found at Woodpecker.
Swellendam offers a host of things to do, like walk to the waterfall at Duiwelsbos in Marloth Nature Reserve, visit the Wildebraam Berry Farm or head for a wine tasting at Olivedale Private Vineyards.
We did one of the hikes in Bontebok National Park and lost the path. It was hot, I was cranky, but it was most enjoyable, especially seeing the cows on the banks of the Breede River. They have neat picnic sites here.
A highlight of our De Kloof stay was the private Kundalini yoga class hosted by Susan Rossetto in the studio of the Manor House. In typical man-fashion my partner thought of ducking this one, but it turned out to be the best start to a holiday for both of us.
Susan has dedicated her life to yoga and her gentle spirit and encouragement make this hour-and-a-half session so special. It’s rather like some of her good energy radiates from her into us.
No previous experience in this yoga is required, it’s spiritual and not religious, and she tailors the class to the fitness and suppleness of her students. There’s nothing intimidating about it at all.
Kundalini Yoga is known as the yoga of awareness and experience and it’s a personal experience. You are very much in control of how you practise during a class, listening to your own body while being guided by Susan.
She explains the importance of moving our bodies, especially as we get older, and says that yoga is healing, strengthens the immune system and is good for peace as well.
The yoga class ends with Sound Gong Therapy (GONG) therapy, the sound that comes as she uses what could be a magic wand around the rim of her three special bowls from India.
Apparently, these sounds produce a whole spectrum of harmonics that are based on pressure waves of sound which vibrate the energy meridians in the body and bring them into balance. It’s said to be excellent for stress, anxiety and loneliness.
De Kloof is all about good energy and health, so visit the Sans Souci Spa at the De Kloof Heritage Estate, which is exclusively available for in-house hotel guests and offers an impressive range of therapies and treatments.
Whether you lie by the beautiful pool, explore the area or just chill in your space, a visit to this gorgeous property is seeped in peace. I left feeling lighter and happier. Swellendam, I look forward to visiting you again.
For bookings:
* https://www.dekloof.co.za/pages/sound-gong-therapy-gong/
* www.dekloof.co.za
Weekender
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