VINE TIME | GlenWood a good argument for icon chardonnay

There are wineries that intentionally build themselves as wine tourism destinations, or as luxury brands, makers of icon or cult wines, and then there are those that just quietly go about the business of making good wine.

GlenWood in Franschhoek is an example of the latter — they’re on the map (though not on the wine tram route), but not really one of the big names that first come to mind for visitors on the Franschhoek wine tourist trail.

But for those who do find them, there are spectacular views to be had, along with the surprise of superlative sushi paired with their wines, and most important — the wines are superlatively superb.

For the chardonnay lover, GlenWood should be top of the must-visit list.

There’s a good argument for an “icon wine” label as one explores through the layers of what cellar master DP Burger achieves with the grape.

Though they tend to play under the radar, with the majority of their wines destined for European and northern hemisphere markets, GlenWood pulled out all the wine and sushi stops on Thursday to celebrate a double anniversary — 25 years of Burger’s wine making, and 40 years since owner Alistair Wood purchased the property in the Robertsvlei Valley.

Chardonnay has been the focus since GlenWood’s inception, though they have become equally well known for top-drawer shiraz/syrah, as well as semillon and sauvignon blanc — all consistently rated 4-4.5* in Platter’s and claiming international awards.

The opening act of GlenWood Chardonnay 2024 (R170), naturally fermented and unwooded, brought to mind that horribly over-used description of “sunshine in a glass”.

On a chilly autumn evening, as the dark closed in earlier than it did a week before, it really did meet that description, a lift of golden colour and, if it’s possible to describe flavour as golden and sunshiny, that too.

Lightly creamy and textured, exuding citrus zest and blossoms, subtle vanilla, the wine has a lovely balance of complexity of flavour with lightness of touch and lively energy.

A great example of chardonnay that’s well made and also easy to like.

It’s always fascinating to taste through the levels of a particular varietal from one estate, the GlenWood chardonnays becoming more intense and complex as one moves up the range.

GlenWood Vigneron’s Selection Chardonnay 2024 (R350) is wild yeast-fermented in barrels and matured on the lees in French oak for eight months, and the effect shows in a more intensely golden hue, the citrus flavours intensified into grilled lemon, marmalade, dried orange peel.

Creaminess is tempered by brisk mineral acidity, and oaky undertones from the time in wood giving buttery toast, all well integrated and finely balancing richness and freshness for a superb chardonnay.

GlenWood Grand Duc Chardonnay 2023 — now this is Grand!

Only 3,700 bottles were made and the Grand Duc recently claimed double gold in the Gilbert & Gaillard international challenge.

Barrel-fermented and a full 24 months spent in new French oak would suggest you’re going to get a rich, buttery, creamy chardonnay.

The richness is there for sure, but the colour bright gold rather than the deep yellow of oaked chardonnay that’s spent that much time in barrel, and the flavours are bright and pure.

The nose lightly marmalade, on the palate fruit purity like biting into the fresh crunch of an ice-cold ripe pear on a hot day, a sprinkle of lemon zest, wrapped in light buttery creaminess, a lingering sense of texture and freshness, the whole impression one of delicacy and subtlety in a wine of structure and complexity, and most likely impressive ageability.

If you love chardonnay and haven’t met GlenWood yet, now is the time!

The Herald