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The farm Avontuur is a Stellenbosch “institution” — prime winemaking turf on the sought-after slopes of the Helderberg, and a world-class breeder of champion racehorses.
Founder Tony Taberer coined the slogan “the home of fine wine and fast horses” and that twin focus has continued under his sons Michael and Philip since his death in 2007, with the latest development a partnership with drinks giant DGB to revive the wine aspect of the business up to par with the thoroughbred horse stud.
With all the (very welcome) foreign investment coming into the SA wine lands in recent years, it’s great to see a SA company with a global footprint putting their money into a relatively small farm and previously low-key wine brand, and their considerable weight of expertise into the vineyards, cellar and marketing.
It’s a well-considered choice, because Avontuur sits on prime Helderberg terroir in the Stellenbosch “golden triangle”, and a golden opportunity to build anew on the foundation of a legacy story, fitting into DGB’s strategy of “premiumisation” of SA wine in the global market.
Presenting the maiden vintages of the renewed Avontuur, winemaker Dominique Modena described the massive vineyard replanting undertaken to get rid of leafroll virus-infected vines, with DGB bringing in leading viticulturist Heinie Nel and a hi-tech approach to identifying the farm’s optimum soils and slopes, the right sites for each cultivar and the ideal rootstock and grape clones.
Modena, recently a finalist in the Diners Club Young Winemaker awards, brings experience as assistant winemaker at Boschendal, a passion for the flagship cabernet sauvignons that Stellenbosch hangs its hat on, as well as, incidentally, a passion for horses, owning her own horse and an enthusiastic rider when she’s not in the cellar.
She presented her first outing as Avontuur winemaker to a group of wine lovers, retailers and restaurateurs at Merak in Walmer, opening with the classy Cap Classique Brut — “because what’s a day at the races without bubbly?”
The wine portfolio consists of the Avontuur Collection, focusing on specific sites on the farm, and the Thoroughbred Collection, telling the stories of the winning horses and personalities that form the legacy.
The flagship Bordeaux-blend, The Taberer Family Reserve 2022, honours the founding family in a stately blend led by cabernet sauvignon and merlot, rounded out with malbec, cab franc and petit verdot.
Only one 500l barrel was made, so this is a rare treat with fine attention to detail — each component vinified separately and matured for 12-14 months in oak before the best barrels selected for the final blend, which spent another six months in barrel to refine the tannins and round out the blend.
The wine is supremely drinkable now — silky smooth with classic blackcurrant and dark cherries woven with cedar, cigarbox spice and pencil shavings, the wine plush and rich, gently unfurling its layers of complexity.
Luna de Miel Chardonnay 2024 is a great example of a Stellenbosch chardonnay — lightly creamy and lemony, delicate but complex, freshness balanced with subtle richness. Delightful.
A favourite for me, the Stone Field Syrah 2023, elegant with the restrained power of an energetic racehorse. Vibrant with fresh fruit, balanced with layers of dried herbs and the savouriness of black olives, distinctive white pepper. Simply outstanding with a succulent rosemary-crusted lamb with wild mushroom risotto.
With Modena in the jockey’s saddle and DGB in the training ring, Avontuur is a hot tip for the adventurous wine explorer.
• A heart-warming story crossed my desk this week, of the team at estate agents Harcourts Summerton who raised more than R8,000 in their fourth annual Wine for Warmth wine-tasting and fundraising event to support the work of the Healing Hands Foundation.
This is a nonprofit organisation that provides nutritious meals to those in need and a safe house for crime victims, covering diverse areas of the Bay. Well done to the generous wine lovers for looking out for the vulnerable in these chilly times.
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