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Sutherland Vineyards started off as a project, with Thelema founder and cellarmaster Gyles Webb looking to widen his horizons beyond Stellenbosch in the early 2000s, just when Elgin was gaining attention for its potential for cool-climate winemaking in the country’s premier apple-growing region.
The “side project” has grown into a stand-alone brand in its own right, raking in high ratings and a global market presence; still part of the Thelema stable but the wines having their own distinct character and appeal.
Though Thelema has some of the highest and coolest vineyards in Stellenbosch, Elgin presents a whole new frontier in cool-climate terms — a bowl-shaped valley high up in and ringed by the Hottentots Holland and Kogelberg mountains, but within 10km of the Atlantic.
This gives Elgin a multiplicity of cooling influences and sought-after temperature variations for wine growing — high altitude with warm days and colder nights, winds off the ocean, the morning mists of a mountain valley.
As a quick aside, “cool climate” is a term often used as a positive attribute in winespeak, but why does it matter for us as ordinary wine lovers?
This is by no means a full explanation but, basically, cooler temperatures overall, and especially the sharp differences between day and night temperatures experienced at altitude (compared to a moderate, sea-level climate like here in the Bay, for example) mean that grapes ripen more slowly, which develops flavour concentration and complexity, while retaining natural acidity for freshness.
Cool climate wines, in general, deliver lighter body, refined elegance, finesse and clean fruit purity; versus warmer climate wines with richer fruit, fuller body and higher alcohol levels.
“Gyles is an innovator and explorer, and he is passionate about viticulture — always asking ‘what will the soil put in the bottle?’
“He wanted to explore cool-climate growing and winemaking and see what the Elgin soils and slopes would deliver,” Sutherland Vineyards winemaker Rudi Schulz explained on a recent visit to the Bay.
He has been winemaker for both Thelema and Sutherland since 2000.
Though they share a cellar, only Thelema estate grapes go into those wines, while the Sutherland wines are 100% Elgin.
The results are “very Elgin” — the wines have in common clean, pure fruit, lightness of touch, delicacy and elegance.
The aim, Schulz says, is “always balance” of freshness and complexity.
Sutherland Sauvignon Blanc 2024 (R140) does all that — reflecting its cool climate in vibrance and minerality, balancing juicy gooseberries and tropical fruit with lime zest, a play of soft roundedness with liveliness.
With the Sutherland Chardonnay (2022, R210) Schulz says he “tries to keep one foot in Burgundy, aiming for their lean, mineral style but also with rich fullness — it’s a fine balancing act”.
And balanced it is — a complex but fresh wine with intriguing contrasts of citrus purity with the richness of lemon curd, restrained oak influence, creaminess with that distinctive minerality again.
The 2022 Syrah (R210) is silky-cool, a palette of florals, black pepper, smoked meat and savouriness, juicy dark cherries; while the Pinot Noir 2022 (R270) exudes similar coolness, the fruit abundant strawberries and cherries, with subtle earthiness below, a lovely light and elegant pinot.
Highlights of the tasting were Sutherland’s exploration of interesting varieties — a barrel-fermented Viognier/Roussanne 2023 (R250) bringing the typical heady floral (jasmine, honeysuckle) and citrus aromas and flavours of viognier, but not overpoweringly so, the 20% dash of roussanne adding backbone and gripping texture. Elegance with liveliness.
Sutherland Riesling 2025 (R170) is beautifully aromatic with orange and peach blossoms contrasting with fresh acidity of limes and grapefruit.
The terpenes (those waxy, paraffin notes that riesling often gives off in abundance) are well tamed, just a hint, the emphasis more on fruit purity, a balance of sugar and acidity so that the wine is softer but still dry — German-style precision in a glass.
The whole range is a great way to taste through different varieties with a golden thread that tells the story of why cool climate matters.
The Herald
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